Bass Phillip
Bass Phillip is Gippsland's benchmark Pinot Noir producer, working a small, cool-climate site in South Gippsland to make some of Australia's most Burgundian-leaning reds and whites.
History
Bass Phillip was founded by Phillip Jones in the early 1980s in the Leongatha South district of South Gippsland, Victoria. Jones was an early believer in the region's potential for cool-climate viticulture at a time when most of the Australian wine industry's attention was fixed further north and west. He planted the estate with a focus on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, choosing a site and a vine density more reminiscent of Burgundy than of the Australian mainstream, and spent decades building a reputation largely through word of mouth and a fiercely limited supply. The wines rarely circulated widely but attracted a loyal following among collectors who sought out Australian Pinot Noir with genuine structural restraint.
In 2019, Phillip Jones sold Bass Phillip to Japanese businessman Hideo Ogawa, bringing to a close the founding chapter of the estate. The sale was notable partly because Jones had built the property so thoroughly around his own methods and vision over nearly four decades. Ogawa retained the winemaking team and has stated an intent to preserve continuity, though how the estate evolves under new ownership over the longer term remains to be seen. The wines reviewed here span both the final Jones vintages and the first releases under the new ownership.
Vineyards
The estate sits near Leongatha South in South Gippsland, a region that sits well south of the Yarra Valley and experiences a markedly cool, maritime-influenced climate. Elevation, aspect, and proximity to Bass Strait combine to produce a long, slow ripening season that is unusual by Australian standards. The soils are red clay loams over ironstone, and the combination of relatively poor fertility and cool temperatures tends to produce low yields naturally.
Jones planted at high vine density by Australian standards, drawing explicitly on Burgundian models, and the site has old vines by the measure of any New World region. Organic farming practices have been reported at the estate, though full certified status is not consistently documented in public sources.
Winemaking
The wines are made with minimal intervention as a guiding principle. Pinot Noir is fermented with a high proportion of whole clusters in some cuvees, and native yeasts are used throughout. The cellar approach emphasizes restraint: relatively low extraction, gentle handling, and aging in French oak with moderate new oak proportions depending on the tier. The Premium bottlings see less new oak and shorter aging than the Reserve, which spends longer in barrel and draws on the most concentrated fruit from the estate.
Bass Phillip produces a tiered range across both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with Estate, Premium, and Reserve levels corresponding broadly to vineyard selection and cellar treatment rather than to distinct parcels publicly documented. The Reserve Pinot Noir is the wine most often cited as the flagship, capable of significant aging and frequently compared in structure and aromatic register to village-to-premier cru Burgundy. The Chardonnay receives similarly conservative treatment, with restrained oak and a focus on texture and line over overt fruit weight.
Wines
2019 Pinot Noir Premium
2019 Chardonnay Premium
2019 Pinot Noir Reserve
2018 Chardonnay Estate
2018 Pinot Noir Premium
2018 Chardonnay Premium
2018 Pinot Noir Reserve
2017 Pinot Noir Premium
2017 Pinot Noir Reserve
2016 Pinot Noir Premium
2016 Pinot Noir Reserve
2001 Pinot Noir The Village Gippsland
2001 Pinot Noir Crown Prince Gippsland
2001 Pinot Noir South Gippsland
2001 Pinot Noir Premium South Gippsland
2001 Pinot Reserve South Gippsland
2000 Pinot Reserve South Gippsland
1999 Pinot Noir Premium West Gippsland
1999 Pinot Noir Reserve West Gippsland
1998 Pinot Noir Premium West Gippsland
1997 Pinot Noir Premium West Gippsland