Leitz Riesling Rüdesheimer Rosengarten Grosses Gewächs 2017

Ripe grapefruit and mango carry the nose, underpinned by a saline, almost alkaline lift that sets the mouth watering before the wine has fully settled. The mid-palate is generous and smooth, with a rounded, expansive feel and a faint note of hazelnut adding some savory contrast. The finish is long and lucid, genuinely bell-clear in its mineral precision, though it lacks the taut, driven energy that marks the other Grosses Gewächs bottlings from Leitz. A flattering wine, and this riverside site continues to show real promise, even if conviction about its ceiling is still a few vintages away. Drinking window: best assessed again after a vertical of Rosengarten GGs can be lined up for comparison.