Leitz Riesling Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Ehrenfels Grosses Gewächs 2017

Lime zest and wet stone open the nose, joined by chamomile and iris, floral notes you'd more typically expect from Roseneck. The stony, pithy intensity here edges out even the impressive 2016, yet it never sacrifices fruit: pure apple, lime, and white peach come through with real concentration, backed by a lingering musky floral perfume. Radically dry on the finish, analytically bone-dry, but the mouth-filling saline lift and persistent juiciness keep any austerity well at bay. Taut, energetic, and deeply mineral. Production was tiny, a single Stückfass, as this steep and stony parcel was hit hard by the mid-summer drought. Drink 2022–2040.