Leitz Riesling Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Katerloch trocken 2015

The most muscular and densely built of Leitz's 2015 Grosse Gewächse, the Katerloch opens with ripe peach, yellow plum and grapefruit edged by pit, seed and bitter peel, the whole thing shot through with a tangy, sweaty salinity that carries onto the firm, stone-suffused palate. What it offers in sheer sustained weight and layered flavor it trades against the livelier, more dynamic interplay found in this vintage's BergSchlossberg, impressive, but built more for impact than elegance.