Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Riserva Bussia 90 Dì 2013

Muscular and uncompromising. Iron, cedar, tobacco and licorice are all present, but they're framed by tannins that feel more abrading than structured, and the fruit underneath reads dried-out rather than concentrated. There's an undeniable rusticity here that time may soften but won't fully resolve, this is Bussia in a rugged mood, not a refined one.