Benanti Pietra Marina Etna Bianco Superiore 2009

Carricante at high altitude. Nectarine, lime zest, dried chamomile and crushed volcanic stone on the nose, pure and intensely perfumed. Dense and richly textured through the mid-palate, yet a vivid lemony acidity keeps everything taut and focused. There's a dry, Riesling-like powdered-mineral quality to the finish that lingers impressively. Still wound tight for a 2009, which speaks to both the vintage and the ~3,000-foot elevation of Benanti's eastern-slope Etna vineyards. The freshest, most precise Pietra Marina in years, and a wine that consistently ranks among Italy's finest whites.