Georges Laval Cumières 1er Cru Brut Nature NV

Bracing and tightly wound, with the stony, sun-warmed character that Cumières does so well. Peach skin, lemon rind and white pepper sit alongside crushed chalk, the whole thing pulled together by a fine, persistent bead. Without any dosage, there's nowhere to hide, and nothing needs hiding. Focused and long, with a briny, oyster-shell edge that lingers well past the finish.