Georges Laval Cumières Brut Nature - 2009 Base NV

Toasted brioche, dried apple, and a faint waxy quality open this Chardonnay-led blend, 40% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir, 30% Meunier, with the composure of a wine that's had time to settle into itself. Beneath the richness there's real tension, orchard fruit and quince pulling against a chalky, oyster-shell edge that keeps everything honest. Impressive that the energy hasn't faded; this is still finding its shape, with a few more years to run.