Benoît Déhu Portes Greffes SO4 de Rue des Noyers - 2014 Base NV

Taut and uncompromising from the first sniff, lemon curd, wet chalk, and white flowers with a sea-spray lift that keeps things lively. Zero dosage strips everything back to the essentials, and what Rue des Noyers has to say is worth hearing: stony, focused, with a citrus-pith bite on the finish that lingers cleanly. Precise without being austere. The standout bottle in Déhu's rootstock lineup.