F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Kellerberg 2023

From the warmer, lower sections of the Kellerberg, the upper parcels go to Riesling, this opens with ripe green pear, a leafy ivy note, and a pleasantly yeasty salinity. Savory concentration takes over on the palate: white pepper, crushed sage and chervil, and a gentle creaminess thread through a smooth, fluid mid-palate. What surprises is the finish, which turns vivid and mouth-watering well beyond what the quieter mid-palate implies. Bone-dry and more layered than it first lets on.