Emmerich Knoll Riesling Schütt Smaragd 2023

From a cooler, well-ventilated site over deep gneiss, the Schütt Smaragd 2023 is arrestingly open for a barrel sample, citrus pours out of it in waves, moving from tangy lemon zest through tangerine and into the warmer, rounder end of the orange spectrum. This is quintessential Knoll: quiet in ambition but generous in character, bone-dry and focused yet with a mid-palate so juicy and flowing you feel the richness of the vintage without ever losing the plot. It finishes with a snap of bright tanginess that resets everything. Slender in frame but surprisingly succulent, this wine carries the ease of a warm year without the weight. A real pleasure.