Barmès-Buecher Pinot Gris Rosenberg 2023

Flint and cool stone on the nose, with lemon zest and a faint trace of white pear underneath. Fruit from 35-year-old Rosenberg vines, fermented in foudre, gives the wine a sinewy, focused frame, genuinely dry, with no residual softness to lean on. The texture is silky but the structure is firm, density held in check by sharp, clean acidity. Pinot Gris without the usual weight.