Alheit Vineyards Hemelrand Vine Garden 2023

From vines planted in 2010, this field blend had a curveball thrown at it, botrytis appeared on the Chenin Blanc component around two weeks before harvest, leaving Chris Alheit to weigh up a sweet wine before ultimately keeping it in the blend as intended. The result is a nose with a honeyed, slightly candied edge, yet it stays focused, with a clean mineral undercurrent pulling it into shape. On the palate, the texture is gently viscous, almost silky, but the acidity keeps it honest and precise rather than heavy. That touch of botrytis never dominates; instead it adds character, and the wine signs off with a pleasantly bitter lemon-pith finish that is very much its own. A faithful expression of a tricky vintage. Very fine.