Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Spiegel 2022

From a windswept, high-altitude site on calcareous Danubian gravels and loess, with vines over 50 years old and 20 months on fine lees in a 7,500-liter barrel. White miso, pine resin, lichen and a peppery, earthy undercurrent, it's an intriguing, savory nose that feels genuinely wild. The wine is fluid and lithe across the palate, with a bright, mineral-driven length that holds its shape effortlessly. Compelling Wagram Grüner from one of the appellation's most serious producers.