Wieninger Chardonnay Grand Select 2021

Sourced from 40-year-old vines on the limestone soils of Ried Breiten and Ried Kritzschen on the Bisamberg, this spent 20 months in French 228- and 600-liter barrels, 35% new. Smoke and a touch of reductive grip greet you on the nose, with ripe, juicy lemon pushing through underneath. On the palate, the oak integration is still finding its footing, the fruit is concentrated and generous, but needs time in bottle to assert itself fully. What keeps this honest is a lively freshness that cuts through the weight, along with a fine, yeasty texture that adds real character. Smoke and citrus trail through a long finish. Give it time. (Bone-dry)