Ostertag Sylvaner Vieilles Vines 2021

Drawn from Triassic sandstone, loess and marl, this is a wine built on texture and savory depth rather than aromatic display. Wet stone and lemon balm drift quietly on the nose, but the real action is on the palate, lean and almost austere, with a faintly waxy grip and a low, resonant bitterness that lingers compellingly. Bone-dry and understated, it makes the case for Sylvaner's quiet power.