Moric Grüner Veltliner Ried Krainer 2021

From a single parcel of poor, chalky soils in St Georgen, this is Grüner Veltliner at its most unconventional. Dried hay, yarrow and delicate meadow flowers lift off the glass with a freshness that's almost airy. The wine is compact and fluid on the palate, ripe pear and juicy mirabelle plum against a firm calcareous backbone, with everything in fine balance. Atypical for the variety, but the length and precision here make a strong case for Burgenland as Grüner country.