Jean Foillard Fleurie 2021

Closed at first, then red cherry, crushed strawberry, and a trace of kirsch slowly come forward. For a 2021, there's real substance on the palate, riper and fuller than the vintage might suggest, yet firm acidity and fine-grained tannins keep it from going soft. The finish tightens with a slightly bitter, Morgon-like grip that adds genuine character. Worth flagging: grillure damage led Foillard to pull up vines in the Champagne lieu-dit, leaving just three hectares to work with. Fine wine.