Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Stein 2021

Grown on gneiss in the Wagram, the Stein opens with an appealing coolness, moss, lemon pith, sage, and a softer woodruff note that drifts toward something almost creamy. Pure and unadorned on the palate, it has a naked, stony quality that feels transparent without being lean, carrying a supple smoothness underneath. Bright citrus zest drives the finish, mouthwatering and clean, with a balance that never calls attention to itself. Bone-dry and thoroughly composed.