Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Brenner 2021

The Brenner vineyard is a study in contrasts, fully south-facing with over 50 years of vine age, planted in north-south rows so the canopy shields fruit from the fiercest midday heat while morning and evening sun does its work. High active lime content in the soil means Ott describes it as his hottest site with the coolest stone, and that paradox shows in the glass. Delicate moss and a cool earthiness on the nose give way to a wine of real focus and precision, lemon-driven rather than the broader citrus you might expect from such a warm exposure. The body is firm and taut, with a zesty freshness that currently sits above a layer of spicy yeast, and there's a distinct peppery edge, almost arugula-like, that marks it as unmistakably Grüner. Bone-dry.