Barmès-Buecher 2021

From the upper reaches of Steingrubler, where granite, marl and sandstone converge near the forest edge, this is Gewurztraminer stripped of its usual heaviness. Navel orange and blood orange pith dominate, vivid and precise, with a juiciness that feels almost paradoxical for the variety. Full malo and eighteen months on lees have built texture without weight, and 7g/L acidity, extraordinary here, keeps the 35g/L residual sugar in check. The finish lands somewhere between off-dry and medium-sweet, but what lingers is the energy, not the sweetness. Rare territory for Gewurztraminer.