Marcel Deiss Langenberg 2020

Some reduction at first, but it clears to reveal dried lemon zest, grapefruit pith and ripe pear, composed and quietly aromatic. On the palate, bitter orange rind cuts through with real precision, the body slender but far from slight. This granite-grown field blend from Saint Hippolyte has genuine tension to it, taut and lip-smacking, yet with enough structure and poise to hold its shape. Impressive.