Labet Chardonnay Côtes du Jura La Pellerine 2020

Smoke, wet stone, and yellow orchard fruit open with real grip, this has a Jura intensity that feels earned rather than extracted. Twenty-one months in barrique on 40-year-old vines shows in the texture: concentrated but coiled, with a finish that crackles with tension. The volatile acidity is a non-issue, absorbed entirely into the wine's architecture.