Albert Mann Riesling Wineck-Schlossberg 2020

Sixty-year-old vines on sandy granite deliver something striking here. Ripe orchard fruit, think baked apple and quince, mingles with dried chamomile and a flinty mineral edge. The palate is generous without being heavy, lemon pith cutting through the richness and keeping everything honest. Bone dry, with real concentration and a long, spiced finish of cinnamon and sea salt. Immense.