Hamilton Russell Vineyards Pinot Noir 2019

A Walker Bay designation rather than Hemel-en-Aarde this vintage, wildfire taint forced Hamilton Russell to source the majority of fruit from trusted growers in the valley, fully destemmed but uncrushed, then aged in 24% new French oak. The nose is open and inviting: fresh red and dark fruit with a distinctly herbal edge, sous-bois notes emerging with time in the glass. On the palate, fine-grained tannins and a bright bead of acidity hold things together neatly, with a touch of black pepper punctuating a clean, cohesive finish. That this still carries the house character, restrained, Burgundian in spirit, unhurried, is a genuine achievement given what the vintage endured.