Günther Steinmetz Riesling Dhroner Hofberg 2018

Harvested from a high-elevation parcel in the Hofberg in early October, this 'little' Hofberger, distinct from the GD bottling, comes in at 12.5% alcohol and sits apart from the typical 2018 profile, though that's a point of intrigue rather than concern. Lemon and kumquat lead on the nose, laced with smoke and crushed stone in a way that feels dense and penetrating rather than delicate. On the palate, mineral matter seems almost woven into the texture, and a nutty thread surfaces on the finish alongside real freshness. The stony, smoky character doesn't fade so much as get carried along by a surge of juicy citrus, leaving the close bright and remarkably clear.