Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello 2016

The most austere and angular of the Produttori single-vineyard Riservas, and the one that demands the most patience. Chalk dust, white pepper, fresh mint and red cherry, all precise, all tightly-knit, held within a structure that feels almost architectural. Nothing is given away easily here; the Ovello has always needed years in bottle before it begins to open, and in 2016 what waits on the other side of that wait is genuinely thrilling. A fine, classicist Barbaresco built for the long haul. Drink 2026–2045.