F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd M 2016

Sourced from Loibenberg, Kellerberg, and Liebenberg, the last two picked a week later, this is the most opulent of the Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragde in 2016. Muskmelon, mango, and papaya dominate up front, deepened by dark tobacco and a faint Szechuan pepper sizzle. The body is full and glossy, carrying 14.2% alcohol with surprising composure. It's generous and immediately appealing, though the finish, while persistent, lacks the layered complexity of the Steinertal or Kellerberg single-vineyard bottlings.