F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Kellerberg 2016

Smoke, cracked black pepper and dried marjoram lead the nose, with ripe mango and honeydew melon lurking underneath, an intriguing push and pull between the savory and the lush. On the palate, this is Kellerberg in full Smaragd mode: rich, glycerol-driven and expansive, yet never losing its footing. The fruit is generous without tipping into excess, anchored by a deeply savory core and a finish that turns saline and herb-laced, with transparent mineral detail cutting through the weight. Outstanding stuff from F.X. Pichler, and still very much in its prime. Drink now through 2030.