Emmerich Knoll Riesling Smaragd Vinothekfüllung 2016

From the upper Loibenberg, where late-harvested vines caught some botrytis, aided by moisture-retaining woodland nearby, this is rich and generous without feeling heavy. White peach and mango carry the fruit, while a cool herbal current and the sharp, piquant edge of stone fruit pits keep things honest. What's striking is how the whole thing seems perfumed in wisteria, a floral drape that runs from nose to finish. Botrytis has done its work quietly here, the glycerol is abundant but never cloying, and there's an underlying polish that speaks to restraint. A saline, iodine-threaded note, something like lobster-shell reduction, gives the finish a mouthwatering savory pull that sustains beautifully. The Vinothekfüllung designation sometimes signals wines I find less suited to the cellar than other Knoll bottlings, but this one earns its keep. It surpasses the 2015 not through sheer power but through composure and depth. Drink now through 2038.