Emmerich Knoll Riesling Smaragd Loibenberg 2016

White peach, apricot and frangipane open with an iris-floral lift that carries straight through to the palate. There's a buoyancy here that catches you off guard, for all its richness, this Loibenberg stays nimble, with lime-bright acidity cutting cleanly through the stone fruit weight. The finish turns saline and almost iodine-inflected, with a lobster-shell savoriness that's distinctly Knoll in character. Pristine stony minerality and inner-mouth florals linger long after the wine is gone. Senior Knoll calls this one his archetype of elegance and finesse, and it's hard to disagree.