Emmerich Knoll Muskateller Smaragd 2016

The nose is loud and distinctive, sweaty, saline and faintly animal, with pungent citrus peel, sage and a sharp, pit-edged apricot character that demands attention. Where the Federspiel from the same four parcels (harvested three weeks prior) showed more vivid fruit presence, this Smaragd version falls short on follow-through: the mid-palate lacks juice and brightness, and the primary fruit feels muted for the weight. The finish pulls things back somewhat, clinging with a piquant, zesty grip that leaves a satisfying if incomplete impression.