Emmerich Knoll Muskateller Federspiel 2016

Knoll's Muskateller punches above its Federspiel weight. Lemon oil, grapefruit pith, fresh oregano and cool mint deliver an aromatic intensity that's both pungent and bracingly clean. Sip it and there's real polish beneath the zesty surface, saline edges keeping the mouth watering, the finish stretching longer than you'd expect. Too many Muskatellers lose their primary fruit appeal with ambition; this one holds onto it.