Emmerich Knoll Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Vinothekfüllung 2016

A wine that almost wasn't made. Knoll senior noted that 2016 never pushed toward high ripeness or notable botrytis, only a half-crop from one young block, supplemented by late-hanging fruit from Kreutles and Loibenberg, gave enough material for this tiny release. Peach, mango, nutmeg and almond extract open with real generosity, high-toned and effusive, though with some air the wine settles into more classically Grüner territory, green bean, snap pea, that familiar savory lift. Rich and plush in feel, with a creamy mid-palate weight that suits the fruit's opulence, and a peach-kernel bitterness that keeps things honest. The finish is long and satisfying, if not quite as minerally charged as Knoll's finest Vinothekfüllungen. Drink now through 2030.