Emmerich Knoll Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Loibenberg 2016

Ripe peach and almond on the nose, with a subtle peach-kernel sharpness that primes the senses for what follows, a glossy, generous palate where that same bittersweet edge keeps the richness honest. The finish is the standout moment: a mouthwatering interplay of raw scallop salinity, caramelized parsnip and toasted nuts. GrünerVeltliner's herbal character is muted here, surfacing mainly as a faint, honeyed suggestion of snap pea, while greenhouse florals and a breath of greenery add something quietly haunting. Crushed stone and white pepper arrive late, sharpening a lusciously long close. It's striking that Loibenberg, not typically known for this kind of lift, produces a Smaragd with such buoyancy, and like the Schütt, it opens up considerably with air. Drink now through 2034.