Emmerich Knoll Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Trum 2016

Knoll's inaugural single-vineyard Trum bottling draws on a site shaped by rocky runoff from the Schütt above, stonier than its gentle gradient suggests, and the wine shows it. Cucumber, green bean and a meadow-like floral lift carry through from the nose into the mouth with real clarity. Silky in texture, with a slightly open mid-palate that reads as generosity rather than any shortcoming, the juiciness is the point. The finish opens up into a lively interplay of stony minerality, alkaline grip and a faint smokiness woven through the vegetable and floral notes, closing with a clean, invigorating bite of white pepper.