Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Stein 2016

More evolved than you'd expect from a 2016, this opens with moss, wet stone and a faint kelp-like salinity before fresh lime, crab apple and green bean pull things back toward the lively. There's a glossy, juicy quality on the palate that delivers real crunch and snap, the kind of textural grip that feels almost gritty, as though the wine has absorbed something of the stony terraces it comes from. Alkaline and briny notes thread through the finish alongside something oyster-shell-like that drives the salivation and keeps you reaching for another sip. At a true 12.7% alcohol, it carries a buoyancy that belies its depth. Compelling Wagram Grüner with genuine character.