Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Rosenberg 2016

Ripe and generous from the first sniff, peach, musk melon and honeysuckle layered with fresh basil and mock orange. There's a lushness here that stops just short of excess: the fruit drips, the herbal thread cools it, and a musky floral perfume ties everything together. On the palate, roasted squash and caramelized parsnip add an unexpected savory-sweet dimension, while the finish pulls toward a briny, scallop-shell minerality that keeps the whole thing lively and long. A wine with a complicated upbringing, Ott left crushed grapes on whole stems for 24 hours, endured a punishing reductive phase post-fermentation, and the result justifies every anxious moment.