Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Der Ott 2016

Honeysuckle and lily-of-the-valley carry through the mid-palate alongside ripe pear, quince and Persian melon, lush and silky, but kept honest by the snap of sugar snap pea, cress and nettle that remind you this is Grüner Veltliner, not Riesling. Crushed stone, iodine and sharp pricks of white pepper arrive on the finish, which is long, focused and suffused with a briny minerality that keeps drawing you back. Sourced primarily from the Rosenberg and Spiegel vineyards, though as younger plantings mature, some fruit from vines outside the original blocks has been folded in. Worth noting: a 16-year-old parcel above Rosenberg has since been spun off as a standalone bottling, Grüner Veltliner Kirchthal, debuting with the 2017 vintage. Drink now through 2028.