Alzinger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Steinertal 2016

Honeydew melon, papaya and zesty lime open the nose alongside a roasted red pepper character that gives it a distinctly savory edge. Fuller-bodied than most in the Alzinger Smaragd lineup, with a stony undercurrent that runs through to a slightly austere, smoke-tinged finish. The persistence is there, pepper and mineral smoke linger with real grip, but compared to the Mühlpoint and Loibenberg bottlings from this estate, Steinertal feels a touch closed and underwhelming for its pedigree. The 2016 vintage has the structure to evolve, and bottle age may yet close this gap.