Rudi Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Hochrain 2015

Snap pea, green apple and grapefruit rind jump from the glass, sharpened by a marjoram-like herbal edge. There's genuine richness here, quince and sweet ripeness fill out the mid-palate, yet the wine never loses its crisp, almost crunchy character, which is a minor feat in the generous 2015 vintage. White pepper and a chalky mineral note drive the finish, which holds on with impressive persistence. That balance of opulence and bite is a Hochrain signature, but it runs through the whole Pichler lineup this year, likely a combination of loess terroir and a winemaker who knows when to hold back.