Pierre Gimonnet Spécial Club Grand Terroirs de Chardonnay Extra Brut 2015

Brooding and impenetrable, this Grand Cru blend from Cramant and Chouilly refuses to reveal its secrets. Citrus oils, wet stone and dried herbs emerge grudgingly, but the wine remains locked down despite seven years on lees. The structure suggests potential, yet the severe, almost austere character raises questions about whether time will bring the expected evolution.