Kühling-Gillot Riesling Niersteiner Hipping Auslese 2015

White peach dominates from the first sip, rich and almost syrupy in its concentration, though a streak of peach kernel bitterness keeps things from feeling indulgent. Despite the lush fruit impression, the sweetness is better balanced than expected, notably, at 8.5% alcohol, this actually sits higher than the Ölberg or Rothenberg Auslesen from the same vintage. Right now, though, it trails those bottlings in complexity, juiciness, and persistence. There's genuine pleasure here already, and time may well unlock greater depth and definition.