Kühling-Gillot Riesling Aus der Steillage Kabinett 2015

Sourced entirely from the Pettenthal, this Kabinett sits in an interesting administrative gray zone, recent Rheinhessen VDP rules would allow vineyard designation on the label, but Gillot keeps the 'Aus der Steillage' name now that a second Kabinett from the same parcels has taken the Pettenthal designation. The style is consciously old-school: around 11% alcohol, restrained sweetness, the kind of Kabinett that was once common across the Riesling Rheinland. Smoky black tea, lemon zest, almond extract and musky narcissus on the nose, with genuine complexity. The palate is subtly creamy and gently sweet, with lemon and almond cream playing off candied citrus peel through the finish, soothing and focused at once. What it lacks is a shot of primary fruit energy to sharpen the experience; the wine is polished but could use a little more juice to lift it.