Emmerich Knoll Traminer Smaragd 2015

Knoll senior noted an unusually early harvest here, from healthy fruit that arrived with a very high must weight, and why his Gelber Traminer ripened so precipitously remains unexplained. The nose is heady and forward: rose petal, musk, caraway and bacon fat, with little held in reserve. On the palate, that same generosity plays out across an expansive, oily texture, and at an estimated 15% alcohol the weight is considerable. The finish holds on impressively and stays heat-free, yet ends on a faintly bitter note with less primary fruit brightness than you'd hope for. This is Knoll's Gelber Traminer operating below its usual standard, closer in character to the more perfumed Roter Traminer or Gewürztraminer than to the distinctive, sharper-edged expression this vineyard typically produces.