Emmerich Knoll Riesling Pfaffenberg Selektion 2015

From Knoll's parcel at the crown of the Pfaffenberg, looking straight down to the Danube, a tiny lot that spent its entire pre-bottling life in tank simply because no cask was small enough to hold it. Grapefruit pith, white currant and lime lead the nose, underpinned by stony, alkaline mineral character and a saline edge; a trace of iodine adds quiet complexity. On the palate it's bright yet buffered by serious extract, the acidity drawing long and clean rather than cutting. The finish tugs at both cheeks and pulls the mouth into a long, saliva-inducing close. Austere in its youth but impressively concentrated and minerally layered, this is a wine to track over many years.