Emmerich Knoll Grüner Veltliner Steinfeder 2015

Getting Steinfeder made in a vintage as ripe as 2015 took real effort, Knoll fils explained, a parcel hugging the riverbank made it possible. Fresh and precise, with the characteristic crunch of lettuce and watercress, a clean squeeze of lime, and a lick of salt that gets the mouth going. It's light on its feet but long on finish, a textbook expression of a style that rarely escapes the Wachau these days. Drink soon.