Emmerich Knoll Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Schütt 2015

Harvested at slightly higher must weight than the Loibenberg, a consequence of unusually low yields, according to Knoll senior, the Schütt announces itself with a forceful, almost confrontational nose: lime, papaya, winter squash and parsnip, pungent and uncompromising. There's more primary fruit generosity here than in its sibling, a juiciness that gives the wine a different kind of appeal. The finish shifts register entirely, introducing smoky, peppery and iodine-tinged accents alongside the bitter-pit intensity of stone fruit, a glowing, persistent heat that stays with you. A wine that rewards attention.