Emmerich Knoll Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Loibenberg 2015

Papaya and roasted parsnip lead, threaded with caraway and white pepper in that distinctly bittersweet Knoll register. The texture is glossy and subtly oily, generous without tipping into excess, and the wine avoids the heat that can plague warmer Smaragd bottlings. There's enough primary fruit energy on the finish to keep things lively, though this vintage reads more immediate than contemplative. Enjoyable now, but don't expect the extended arc that the Loibenberg typically delivers.