Emmerich Knoll Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Kreutles 2015

Sharp and angular from the first sip, green apple, rhubarb and a distinct sorrel-like tartness that feels almost bracing for a Federspiel. Knoll has spoken about elevated acidity being the house norm in 2015, and the Kreutles wears that clearly. What's absent here is the nutty, textured crunch that made the 2014 so satisfying at this level; in its place you get a leaner, more austere profile. Still, the finish has real drive, trailing off with a faintly bitter herbal edge and an unexpected stony mineral pull that gives it more depth than the frame initially suggests.